Sunday, August 21, 2011

8.11.11 Day 50 Close encounters with the four legged kind.

8.11.11 Day 50 Close encounters with the four legged kind.

Another bright and early morning. The plan was to ride Bear’s Tooth Highway into Yellowstone then hang out in Yellowstone for the rest of the day. The Alpine Lodge serves hot breakfast in the morning so I went to get a cup of coffee and some eggs when Brad showed up. We had breakfast and chit chatted some more, then it was time to hit the road. I headed west towards 212. I was in for a scenic ride, but the extent of it I had no idea. Almost immediately before even climbing in elevation, you get a great look at some snow capped peaks and valleys. As the road climbs higher and higher, the views become grander. The air becomes thinner and cooler. At the first major overlook, I take some pictures and talk with a Harley Rider who had been here several times. Apparently they had more snow last year than years past so the amount of snow and ice left over was higher than normal.

As I continued on, it was impossible to just drive past the overlooks. I stopped at every one just to take in the view. Near the peak, the wind was so strong and the air so thin that I could tell I was breathing harder as I walked around and climbed on rocks to get better shots. It was near the peak overlooking the lake where I first ran into the two old riders from Manitoba. One was on an old Goldwing and the other a Harley. They were obviously long time riding buddies. These two were great to follow around and talk with. They had a great sense of humor and just seemed to truly enjoy riding and each others company.















This little guy was not afraid of people.































































































































































After we descended back into somewhat low lands, we all stopped at a country general store called Top of the World. I topped off on gas then went in the store to get some coffee and buy some souvenirs and postcards which I still need to send out. The Canadians were there again so we all sat down and had some coffee. There we met Uto, a Brazilian from Sao Paulo who was doing the Harley 48 State tour. Its basically a scavenger hunt of sorts. They all start from one point with a short map to the next major stop, only when they get to the next stop do they know where to go. Apparently the fastest finisher gets a big chunk of change. The winner of last years “race” rode for 48 hours straight at some times and gave himself a catheter so he wouldn’t have to stop as often. Yeah, no thanks.

The four of us sitting together must have been a funny site to see. Four people from different walks of life having only one thing in common but that one thing makes us talk and laugh together like we are old friends. We all sat around for far too long before we all finally got up to leave. Just a mile down the road, we were stopped by construction and had to wait for a while for the pilot car to lead us through. Uto and I chatted for a bit longer. Apparantly he had hit two deer or elk on the highway a few days ago. He managed to keep the bike upright but the deer were not so lucky. His words were, “Boom, deer hit, dead, just like that.” There was a little tuft of fur on his right hand side running board proving his close encounter. He kept it there for a good luck charm he says, haha.



















Uto, from Brazil.













A little tuft of fur from the deers that he hit on the highway remain as his good luck charm.

























My hilarious Canadian friends.











We all continued riding in a row until we got into Cooke City. I split off to use the restroom and gas up. Then it was on to Yellowstone. The entrance to Yellowstone ran along Lamar River and the valley. Although it wasn’t the breathtaking views of Bear Tooth, it was still beautiful in its own right. The valley was green as can be, there were people fly fishing, herds of buffalo roamed the pastures and there was just a sense of untouched wilderness.

I stopped at the first overlook that had bison roaming and run into the two Canadians again. The short one on the Harley says, “ They are horny, I can tell, one of them is gonna mount up any minute now.”

We laugh at him like it’s a joke, but seriously, not 10 seconds later, the huge bull of the herd mounts up a bison. We laugh even harder when the Canadian says, “ See, I told you. I have a sense about these things, I know my own.”

On that note, I decided to keep moving and the Canadians followed. We stopped at another Bison herd that were closer this time. I needed to find a campground at this point so I could unload some of my gear so I decided to just keep moving. Not a half mile up the road, I come across a traffic jam. I was wondering what was going on until I see a few big dark objects lumbering across the road. There was a large group of bison crossing the road and several of them were just a few car lengths away. These were big beasts with big horns, it feels a little uneasy being around something that huge on a motorcycle.
















Once all the bison were done crossing, I went straight to the first gas station to break out my map. There I saw Uto again. We were heading different directions so he went on his way and I went campground searching. The first few were full so I just kept cruising through Yellowstone checking out the sights. After looking at the Upper and lower falls, I started to keep heading south until I noticed a large storm coming into the area. It looked like a full on thunderstorm so I figured I would cut across Yellowstone due west and see the geysers. South of me were the fishing lakes so I don’t really feel too bad about missing them. The Norris geyers were right on the edge of the storm. At first, it was chilly and windy from the storm, but as I walked around the geysers, the storm moved on then all of a sudden I was scorching hot in my leathers again. I had hoped to find a campground already and dropped off everything and changed, but that hasn’t worked out yet. After the Norris Geyser basin, I kept heading south towards Old Faithful. I had spent so much time on Bear Tooth, it was getting late in the day already. There are a lot of geysers on the way down, but I didn’t stop at them all. There were some I passed by that were cool looking, but I just wanted to see Old Faithful and call it a day. All the campgrounds were full at this point so I wanted to get a couple hours of head start on the ride out to Glacier National Park. Private campgrounds and hotels are a lot cheaper the further away from tourist attractions.






















































































































































This guy ended up walking right past me. I wasnt sure if I needed to haul ass or stay completely still....
Kind of unnerving being next to these things on a bike.




































Old Faithful is much further away than I thought. In fact, its even almost its own attraction outside of the park. Right when I pulled up to park, Old Faithful went off. I got to see the whole thing, but just not up close. I thought about waiting for the next “show,” but I was starving and ready to keep moving. Its already 7pm and I need to be a decent distance from the park tonight.




Old Faithful









At this point, Im excited to leave Yellowstone. The park was packed and full of vehicles that would randomly stop to look at things, or slam on the brakes at the very last second to make a turn. Just full of horrible drivers and I was beginning to lose my patience riding around. The ride out of the park was just as bad. RV after RV clogging up the motorways. Im not getting very far away as the sun goes down.
Finally out of the park and off a main road, I see a sign for RV resort and cabins so I pull in. No tent camping but cabins are $75. Fine, I ll have somewhere to charge my camera batteries too. I probably should have called around for some cheaper hotel rooms, but I was tired and aggravated so I just took the first thing I saw. The cabin ended up having a great view on the lake so I couldn’t complain.
































I was recommended the Happy Hour Bar for dinner so off I went. Generic menu of burgers and such and I wasn’t really in the mood for more buffalo burgers so I got the nachos that the waitress swore were awesome. Yeah, Mexican style food is only good in the south it seems. Long day of riding and sightseeing. Just a few snacks during the day and I ended up with a crappy dinner. A bit disappointed, but Ill make up for it tomorrow somehow.


8.10.11 Day 49 Tap the Rockies


8.10.11 Day 49 Tap the Rockies

It was a chilly night in the Black Hills so it was tough to crawl out the warmth of my sleeping bag. A few times during the night, I heard what sounded like huge pissed off cows. I assumed it was buffalo but I wasn’t sure and I wasn’t going to crawl out and find out. When I finally unzipped the tent and looked out, there was indeed a herd of buffalo on top of the hill next to my tent. Cool! I was surprised not to see any yesterday so this was a nice treat. It was drizzling so I used my cheap point and shoot to grab a pic then started to pack up. It took a while to pack this morning as I was still tired and the rain just sucked the energy out of me. I finally left the campsite at 8am and made my way towards Wyoming. I wanted to ride the Beartooth Highway at the end of the day. This would put me half a day ahead of schedule and perfect timing for my appointment at the dealership.





Leaving Black Hills.








Today is pretty much an interstate day. Needing to make up some time, it was the best way to go. Also, I was afraid of running out of gas again and I didn’t want to put on extra mileage because my tire was looking really thin. Its going to be close.

I cross into Wyoming via backroads, stuck behind Harleys the whole way. Then I got onto I-90 and finally some clear road. I stopped every 2 gallons again for gas. Halfway though Wyoming, I crested a hill and there it was….The Rockies in all of its glory and massiveness. Beautiful. Its hard for me to believe that I am here now. Its been a long time coming to be able to see these gorgeous snow capped peaks and Im so happy to finally get a glimpse. Ive been on the road for a month and a half now and its barely sunk in as to what I’m doing. Today, I am fully aware. I raised my left arm in triumph and shouted inside my helmet. “YYYEEAAAAAA!!!!!!!”






I raced this train for an hour.












So much sky.
you can see the shadows each cloud creates.












The Rockies!!!









Even though Im on the interstate just racking up miles, I have a big smile and Im happy to be with Jess and riding across America. I hit 10,000 miles today on this trip alone. Although I still have a long long way to go, this feels like a rather large achievement. Its another milestone to my road trip. The next will be arriving at the West Coast in Seattle. Then it’s a huge one after that, Alaska and the Arctic Circle. Everyday Alaska plagues my mind and the closer I get, I better I feel, but the worse I feel. I know it’s a long way still and it will be a challenge with the weather turning colder and colder by the minute. I just have to push the doubts aside and continue on.

As I continue up I-90, I follow the Rockies up into Montana. There are several rain storms in the area and somehow the road twists and turns around and between them and I manage to stay dry. In Montana, I continue on the superslab into Billings. On the way, I passed hundreds of Harleys. Some waved, some didn’t. Personally, I stopped waving to the Harleys, but when I did see something two wheeled other than a Harley I waved frantically and so did they. I cruised at 75-80 the whole way to help conserve tires so I was passed by lot of Harleys. Some waved and by the end of the day, I was so tired of waving back that I started to not just wave but do random things. Sometimes I would just throw up my usual peace sign, sometimes I would throw up gang signs, sometimes I would give them the “shocker”, sometimes I would take both hands off and do the “wave” hoping one or two would follow along. But all I got was strange looks. Hahaha, it was amusing to me. At one point, there were 4 bikes coming up and the first two were Harleys, I threw up the shocker and when the third bike came alongside, I noticed it was a Kawasaki ZX-6r. I threw up the shocker again not thinking twice about it. I used to own one of these so I turned to get a better look and it ended up being a young female rider, a pretty one at that. She laughed, pointed to me and gave me a thumbs up. I laughed and gave her a thumbs up back. Nice to see a sport bike again, let alone a young pretty girl on a sport bike. Its been a while since Ive seen that. The past few days have just been leathered and sunburned old ladies on the back of a Harley with no gear on except for assless chaps with pink tassles and a pink bandana. Im really not a fan of Sturgis, haha.














Got into Billings at 4pm and kept riding though. Got off the interstate at Laurel and gassed up. Lots of strange looks my way here, haha. Then on the way into Red Lodge, I could see a massive storm coming my way. Dark clouds, rain, lightning, the whole nine. Great. I rode 16A in the rain and I didn’t want to ride Beartooth Highway in the rain. It was rated the #1 road in America by the AMA so I wanted to enjoy this. I decided I would get a room tonight so I could charge up the cameras for the venture into Yellowstone tomorrow and then Glacier National Park the next day.




All things considering, Ive been pretty lucky with the rain thus far.













Massive storm that just barely missed us.









In Red Lodge, I pulled off at the first hotel I saw. The Alpine Lodge. There was a harley and it rider in the parking lot so I asked how much a room was. “90”, he said. Holy crap, that’s expensive. We chatted for a second, he made a comment on my ADV sticker which is the first one Ive gotten so that was pretty cool. I called around a few more places and it turns out 90 is the best it gets. The rider mentioned that they have tent sites here too but I didn’t want to camp in the rain again. We chatted for a bit longer, this guy is actually pretty cool, for a Harley guy, hahaha. I decided to try my luck at this hotel and as I was walking off, the Harley asked if I was going to get dinner and I said, yes. He then said to come by and get him before I left and he would join me. Cool! I wont be eating alone for once! Just as I was walking towards the office, a pack of Harleys came in and got to the office before I could. Shit, there better be more rooms available. There was one left after they got done. it’s a two bed cabin with no AC, no bathroom. But it was $88 after taxes which is pretty good for the area. All the other cabins and rooms were minimum $110 after taxes.

Unpacked and showered, I rode the bike to the Harley rider I met. I introduced myself and so did he. Brad is from Washington and has been on the road for two weeks. He took a lot of backroads out to Sturgis and was on his way back home via more backroads. I asked the people at the office for a recommendation then off we went. It was a nice little pub with 20 beers on tap. We both coincidentally ordered the Pigs Ass. Brad was at the chalkboard with the beer list when he ordered and I was at the table. We laughed about how we both picked it for its name. Turned out to be a great dark beer. I decided to get a Buffalo Burger since Ive never had one before and it I was to order one anywhere, then it would be Montana.






Buffalo Burger, not bad.






As I talked to Brad more and more at dinner, he was really making me jealous. He is a pilot, which is what I wanted to be, he lived in Europe for quite a few years which I want to do, has ridden the Autobahn, the Italian alps, seen the Isle of Man……the list goes on. I hate this guy, he has done a lot things I desperately want to. And on top of it all, he just bought a KLR which is my next bike. As much as I was jealous of the things Ive done, I couldn’t help but like the guy, even though he rode a Harley, haha. But to be fair, he had sport bikes for some time too.


I don’t hate all Harley riders, but a lot of them really annoy me. Im sure a lot of sport bike guys annoy the Harley riders too. I wish we could all get along, but the world isn’t perfect.

Brad was generous enough to pay for dinner and I left the tip. I asked what the damage was and I tried to count the tip in my head. The two beers really had an effect on me and I was having trouble with the math. I laughed and started to make a remark about how bad it was that I was asian and couldn’t do simple math when he started laughing and said something like, “I wasn’t going to bring up stereotypes but it is pretty bad considering your Asian and a race car engineer.” I got a good laugh out of that one. Ive gotten awful at simple math lately, I do everything on a calculator now so my brain is completely defunct of simple mathematical equations. I cant imagine doing any calculus now. Brad gave me his contact info and offered me a place when Im in southern Washington. Ill be sure to take him up on it, maybe I can convince him to come ride a day with me near Mt. Hood and camp.




Brad and his Sportster.












Back at the hotel now and Im trying to update the blog. Its slow going but Im getting there. Im only a few days behind now and I should be able to update everything else once I get into Seattle. In just a few days, Ill be on the West Coast and be able to wish my brother a happy birthday in person for the first time in almost ten years. Im excited……

8.9.11 Day 48 Four heads are better than one.






8.9.11 Day 48 Four heads are better than one.

I got up bright and early today. The sun was barely up as I packed everything up. I wanted to get into the Badlands early so I could ride the loop road and still have time to visit Mount Rushmore and ride some of the Black Hills. The plan was to camp in the Badlands then ride Black hills tomorrow, but as of now, I still have an appointment at a dealership in Seattle. I thought they were open on Monday, but apparently not so I need to be there mid afternoon on Sunday now and I had a lot of ground to cover.

After leaving Wylie Amusement park, I went to a gas station to top off. I don’t want to run out of gas ever again. At the gas station, several people asked if I was going to Sturgis. Is that going on this week? I guess I planned a bad time to be in the area. One guy mentioned that SR 12 was closed due to flooding. Crap, I was actually planning on taking that route. He gave me some directions that would take me around the closure and off I went. This area of South Dakota is pretty flat and boring. It was cool so to be able to see so much land at one time though. And the sky just never seemed to end.





Lots of ethanol in this area.









The bright yellow sunflowers provide a stark contrast to the rest of the topography.













There used to be farmland under that water.












Finally a change of scenery.












More sunflowers











Back to flat nothing









Somehow I managed to avoid all the rainstorms while on the way to Rapid City. They were all close enough for me too see the rain falling, but it never fell on me. At some points I was sure I would get wet, but I managed to avoid most of it. I stopped often for gas, every 2 galllons used, I filled up. My route took me through Pierre, SD. Its such a small strange town. Its strange how some cities become the capitols of states when there are larger and better cities in the state. Im reminded of Tallahasee and Raleigh specifically. I got into Wall, SD at noon, way earlier than I anticipated. I went into town and walked around Wall Drug. The only reason I went is because for the past 2 hours, there were signs tell me to, so I did. I guess their marketing strategy worked. It was a total tourist trap so I just got lunch and left. The meal was crappy and expensive.





The biggest tourist trap ever.




















Its time for the Badlands. The Harley presence was ridiculous. I couldn’t go anywhere without hearing the ridiculously loud pipes and being held up by pack of 20 or so Harleys going 10 under the speed limit. Im not to Sturgis yet and Im already so annoyed by them.

At the front gate, I was pulling up to the line then the a pack or 10 or so Harleys decided to jump in front of me from the other line. I gave every one of them the finger. What a bunch of dicks. I waited forever while these guys dug out their wallets and paid. I pulled up, waved my annual pass and went on my way. Pulled off at the first overlook to get out my DSLR camera when a large pack of Harleys pulled up and blocked the roadway. All of them left their bikes running while they walked around. The noise was unbearable. For gods sake, just shut off your bike!!! They were probably afraid it wouldn’t start back up again…..

After a few quick pics, I got back on the loop road hoping to avoid being stuck behind the large pack. Nope, no such luck. It wasn’t the same pack at the overlook though, it was yet another massive pack of Harleys. This is going to get old really really quick.





































































The Badlands are awesome, but the thing is, after you have been to a few overlooks, the rest are pretty much the same. There was one in particular that I really enjoyed. It was the Yellow Mounds. These had a brilliant shade of yellow and purple in the rock. I didn’t think there would be so much color here.








Yellow Mounds





















About halfway through the loop road, I saw a non harley pulled off the road so I decided to stop and make sure he was okay. It was a Suzuki GS 500. When I stopped, I smiled and said, “Im so happy to see something other than a Harley!”

He laughed and we talked for a bit. He was from Toronto out on a road trip for a few weeks. He has been I the area before last year and was just revisiting and was thinking of going out to the Grand Canyon. We chatted for a while then went our separate ways. Cool guy, would have been nice to ride around with him for a bit but we were headed separate directions after the Badlands.

I toured the rest of the Badlands then took a break at the lodge near the end of the road. I saw the rider from Toronto again and we chatted again and snapped a pic. When he left, he turned his iPhone to video mode and stuck it inside his helmet to film. I laughed as he shut his visor and took off. Ive never thought of that one before and I thought I had some crazy ideas.













Badlands done, it was time to head towards Mount Rushmore. I jumped back on the I-90 west. On the way to Rushmore, it started to rain so I checked the radar and it was a fairly large storm. I thought about turning around and going to Sturgis just to see what it was about, but I decided to do Rushmore anyways. I really didn’t want to put up with the parking lot of Harley Davidsons that is Sturgis. Everyone says I have to do it just because I am there, but you know what? I don’t. If it wasn’t Bike week, I would have gone, but Im in no mood to idle behind a massive loud pack of Harleys through a strip of parked Harleys have of which were trailered there.

Rain gear dance done, I went towards Rushmore and Keystone. It rained pretty hard for a few miles but slowed to a trickle after a while. I pulled into the Rushmore parking lot just after it quit raining. There were still massive dark clouds all around, but it was sunny at Mt. Rushmore. I paid my fee and went to the site. it’s a lot smaller that I originally envisioned, but still neat to see. I imagined hanging off the rock face with an air hammer and chisel in the freezing cold. Yup, not for me. Watched the movie to kill some time and walked around the memorial. My friend Clint, who rode with me through Deal’s Gap and Kentucky, had a relative that worked on the monument so I decided to go find his name on the memorial. The list of workers was a lot smaller that I thought it would be so it was quick and easy to find the name. I snapped a pic and texted it to him. Thought it might be neat for him.









Mount Rushmore.





































After Rushmore, the sky seemed to clear a bit so I decided to ride 16A. This is one of the twistiest roads in the US so of course I had to hit it. Its too bad the roads were wet and crowded with slow moving Harleys. Halfway through, it started to rain again. Oncoming Harleys were going wide into my lane and the ones that were supposd to be in my lane were creeping at 10 mph and slower through the rain. Come on guys, if I go any slower, Im gonna fall over. Ive got to come back one day when it isn’t Sturgis week. The Black Hills are absolutely awesome and gorgeous, but this is just the wrong time of year to be here. Next time, Ill have to make sure Im not here for Bike Week.

After 16a, I wanted to visit Cave Winds National Park so I hurriedly made my way there. The bike traffic was horrendous though so it took way longer than it should have. The rain only made things slower. These guys are just afraid to ride in the rain. Every corner they come, they would almost park the bike and negotiate it almost upright. Bikes are made to lean people, let it lean. Your tires are grooved for a reason, it will be okay. Hell, Ive dragged knees in the rain, its not a problem as long as your smooth.





Lots of elk on the road.







I finally get out of the traffic and start making my way to Cave Wind. Its only drizzling now but the skies are really dark and it looks bad. At least it keeps the other bikes off the road. Getting into the national park, there is almost no traffic but I have to keep it slow because there are deer everywhere. On several occassions, I came around a corner only to have a small group of deer in the middle of the road. If your not looking carefully for them, they almost blend into the background. Arrived at Cave Wind at 8pm but the tours had already ended. Damn! Freaking Harleys. They don’t start back until 8:40 am and I would be long gone by then. Man, I cant believe being stuck behind all that Harley traffic made me miss out on the tour. Im so annoyed….






Hard to tell from the pictures, but this was the most vivid rainbow Ive ever seen.







Its getting late now and I needed to find a place to camp. Just before the tour entrance, there was a campground on Elk Mountain so I decided to check it out. Its only $12 and its almost empty. Perfect. The grounds are small but neat so I pick a spot in the back away from everyone else and set up. Then I went back to the office and put $15 in the drop box and took some firewood. Yet again, Jess gets packed up with firewood. Back at the campsite, I start making the fire. There is no kindling around to use so I burn my national park map and a few other random receipts and such to start the fire. No go, wood is wet. I get out my book and tear out a few pages and finally get a small fire going. Then it starts raining again and my fire goes out. Few more pages and I get a small fire going again, I stack the rest of the wood above the small fire to keep it sheltered from the rain and soon, I had a roaring fire going. Sweet. The rain ends and it starts getting chilly fast. The clouds finally move on and stars begin to peak out. Beautiful, this is what I like. Campsite all to myself, stars, chilly night and a nice warm fire to sit beside and read. I read my book until midnight then crawled into my sleeping bag. My body is sore from the ride today so I fell asleep so fast I don’t even remember zipping up the bag.